The video below will take you through the surprisingly simple steps to light your coal fire. 

Before you get started you will need firelighters (we use white kerosene firelighters in this video as they are the most common, but other natural firelighters such as Twizlers or Fibre-Lighters work equally as well), dry kindling wood and good quality coal or smokeless coal.

Always start with a clean grate.

Step 1

Firstly, place 2-3 Twizlers onto the firebed.

Step 2

Then, add the kindling on top of the Twizlers. This is your combustion chamber. For the time being ensure that you leave plenty of air gaps.

Step 3

Light, the Twizlers from underneath the kindling.

Step 4

Once the Twizlers are lit, add a few more pieces of kindling to the fire to build the heat.

Step 5

Immediately, start to add a generous amount of smokeless coal on top of the fire.

Step 6

Ensure all the kindling is covered with the smokeless coal.

Step 7

Give the fire enough time to grow and for the smokeless coal to catch light.

Step 8

Finally, you can sit back, relax and enjoy the warmth of your cosy fire.

Step 1 - Preparations

Before you begin the process of lighting your log fire, ensure that your appliance is in good working order. Your chimney should be cleaned bi-annually by a qualified chimney sweep, and the place where you wish to light your log fire must have suitable and adequate ventilation.

Step 2 - Rake the grate

Rake the grate using your poker and allow any old ash to fall into the ash pan below. Using the brush, sweep away any remaining ash, leaving your fireplace and hearth clean. Don't clear out the grate completely (just get rid of the ash and small cinders) as you may have some part-burnt pieces of fireplace logs, firewood or solid fuel left and these are ideal to help get your new log fire off to a good start.

Step 3 - Empty the Ash Pan

Cinders, from a previous log fire, that have fallen through the grate can remain hot for many hours, so be careful and do not empty hot ash and cinders into combustible containers – a metal container placed on the hearth is ideal - keep this away from carpets as the heat will transfer. Remove any decorative parts of the fire bed to gain access to the ash pan.  Have your container close to hand and slowly tip the ash into your container. Be careful how quickly you tip it as you may end up covered in a cloud of ash if you do it too fast. Remove the ash from the room and replace the component parts of the fire bed so that you are in a position to lay your log fire.

Step 4 - Lay the Fire Bed

Place two or three firelighters on your fire bed.

To make a combustion chamber around the firelighters, put one piece of kindling against the appliance's back wall. You should then place four or five more pieces of kindling against this first piece. Be careful to leave enough space to reach the firelighters.

Step 5 - Light the Fire

Light the firelighters and wait until the kindling begins to burn.

Step 6 - Wait

Once the flames are established add some small logs to the fire. Once these are burning well add some larger logs, always looking to place logs where it can help the fire spread to fill the grate. One reason why a log fire goes out is that people are too impatient, and load the log fire with fuel before the base of the fire has established itself.

When you are happy that there is sufficient fuel on the log fire, replace your fire guard, clear away any fire-making materials and refill your log basket. You can then sit back and enjoy the warm glow  that your burning fireplace logs bring to your living room!

 

* The advice we give is not exhaustive and therefore not complete. Should you choose to act upon any of the information given to light your log fire, you should do so at your own risk. We will accept no liability nor claims from actions arising from the information set out in these web pages.

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Regular sweeping will remove soot, bird nests, cobwebs and other blockages which can create unwanted problems.

A good chimney sweep will have the necessary training and experience to notice problems which might lead to chimney fires or inefficient burning and will be able to bring any dangers to your attention.

How Often Should I Have My Chimney Swept?

Smokeless Coal – At least once a year

Wood – Up to four times a year

Bituminous coal – Twice a year

September is a sensible time to get your chimney swept before professional sweeps get booked up ahead of the busier winter months.

Where Can I Find A Good Chimney Sweep?

We recommend the hiring of chimney sweeps that are registered with any one of the agencies below, each of whom has their own strict code of guidelines and assessment required for membership.

The Guild of Master Chimney Sweeps

The National Association of Chimney Sweeps (NACS)

Association of Professional and Independent Chimney Sweeps (APICS)

If you have a multi-fuel stove, there are various HETAS approved manufactured smokeless fuels which we would recommend, including Homefire, Homefire Ovals, Ecoal50, Taybrite and Phurnacite. Suitable kiln dried wood can also be used in multi-fuel stoves and we would advise that you look for a product with a moisture content of less than 20%. 

Look out for the orange Woodsure Ready to Burn logo on our wood fuel packaging so you know you are getting a quality wood fuel product with low moisture, low smoke emissions and improved heating performance.

 

Ensuring your stove is in the perfect working order now, means you'll be able to use it straightaway during that first cold night of winter.

• Summer is the best time for a stove maintenance check so it's fully functional for winter
• A fully maintained solid fuel stove is more efficient, safer to use and saves you money
• A summer clean keeps your stove looking its best if it's the focal point of your living room
• Combine a stove maintenance with a professional chimney clean from a registered sweep who will be less busy in the summer
• Failing to maintain your stove could invalidate its warranty

Below are some top tips to maintain your stove's performance throughout the year:

Remove ash, soot and debris

The first thing to do is clean any remaining ash, soot or debris from the inside of your closed appliance, paying particular attention to the glass door and the fire grate. The glass on the stove door can become discoloured over time but you can clean it with a stove glass cleaner, a scratch free scouring pad and a clean cloth. Due to the high temperatures the fire grate faces, it can become worn over time. A stove and grate polish can give a lift to your grate but if you are replacing a grate, make sure it fits properly.

Check baffle plate

Like grates, baffle plates also withstand high temperatures as they are situated inside the firebox area of the stove and subjected to the flames of the fire. It is important to clean the baffle plate of any excess soot build up as this can affect your stove’s performance. Should your baffle plate get damaged, make sure to replace it in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

Check seals

To keep your stove working efficiently it’s important to check all the seals including the door rope, glass gasket seal and any joints which may have been sealed. Seals need to be airtight to avoid drawing in unwanted air to the firebox and reducing optimum performance. A good tip for checking your door seals is to fold a piece of newspaper and close the door on it. Your door will be airtight if you can't pull the paper through.

A fresh coat of paint

Refresh your appliance’s paint finish to hide any minor scratches and blemishes. However, do not use ordinary paint. You should only ever use specialist heat resistant stove paint on multi-fuel and wood burning stoves. Make sure the surface of the stove is free of rust, dirt and grease as these can ruin the end result. If you are just rejuvenating the existing finish of your stove, a single coat is all you need. If you are painting bare metal build up the finish in several layers, allowing time for the paint to dry between coats*.

*When firing the stove for the first time since painting, open a window as the paint will give off a smell during this first use.

Check for rust

Unlikely to be a problem with a modern stove but it’s worth checking nonetheless. If there is any rusting, it’s better to get it sorted sooner rather than later. Remove the rust with wire wool and then reapply stove paint to make your stove look as good as new.

Leave the door ajar during extended periods of non-use

If you’re not planning to use the stove for the summer or it’s going to be out of use for longer than a few days for any other reason, leave the door slightly open to encourage air flow and ventilation to help stop corrosion.

Have your chimney swept

Taking good care of your chimney and appliance helps protect against damage and chimney fires, and also helps ensure the longevity of your appliance, as well as keeping your fuel burning as efficiently as possible.

How often should my chimney be swept?

Smokeless Coal – At least once a year
Wood – Up to 4 times a year
Bituminous coal – Twice a year

A registered chimney sweep will ensure that the chimney is cleaned correctly, as well as carrying out any appropriate safety checks to the fireplace and chimney itself. If any problems are identified your sweep will be able to advise the best route for repair.

Finally, if you want more information about which is the best fuel for your appliance, visit the Coals2U Fuel Chooser by clicking here.

Useful Links

Heat Resistant Stove Paint - www.glowing-embers.co.uk

Stove Glass Cleaner - www.valiantfireside.com

Rope Seal Kit - www.stoveseal.co.uk

The National Association of Chimney Sweeps (NACS) - www.nacs.org.uk

The Guild of Master Chimney Sweeps - www.guildofmasterchimneysweeps.co.uk

 

It’s to be expected that in the confined space of your wood-burning stove, there will be some by products present, especially if your stove is an older version and does not feature an in-built airwash system that many burners now feature.

Below are some of the reasons for your stove glass turning black and a few solutions so you can deal with the problem:

Burning unseasoned wood

This is one of the main reasons why your stove glass might be turning black. Burning wood, which is unseasoned, means energy is used on evaporation rather than burning and the incomplete burn results in excessive smoke being produced. This results in by-products such as tar, soot and creosote settling on the glass. 

Most manufacturers recommend only burning wood with a moisture content of 20% or less and we always recommend using Homefire Ready to Burn kiln dried wood which guarantees you are getting a quality wood fuel product with low moisture, low smoke emissions and improved heating performance.

Burning House Coal

Burning house coal in your stove will increase the chances of the glass blackening and most stove manufacturers recommend you avoid using house coal and instead opt for Homefire smokeless fuels. Burning house coals on a closed appliance means the tar and smoke particles can find their way onto the stove glass. Even the most modern airwash system (see below) will build up a volume of tar and dust generated by burning house coal.

Lack or incorrect use of Airwash

Most modern stoves are built with their own airwash system preventing the build up of soot on the glass. Airwash systems use the vent at the top of the stove to direct a thin layer of air across the glass to wash it and reduce the build up of soot, dirt and grime.

However, not using the airwash system correctly can also result in blackened glass. If your stove is not burning at a high enough temperature (for example, by burning a small fire in a large stove), the airwash will not function properly as the stove is not hot enough. Try to avoid closing your airwash vent completely when using your stove as this can also lead to soot build up.

Fuel touching the glass

Be careful not to overfill your stove with fuel or load the fuel so it is touching the glass, as this can lead to the glass blackening in a couple of areas, rather than the entire surface.

The Dangers of Carbon Monoxide

Carbon Monoxide (CO) is a poisonous gas which is given off when burning solid fuel. CO gas normally passes harmlessly out of the top of the chimney. However, if the chimney is blocked or leaky, the appliance is faulty, or if the ventilation is inadequate, Carbon Monoxide could enter your home. It can also come from faulty central heating systems, or gas appliances such as electric fires and cookers, so it isn't only solid fuel burners who should be on their guard.

Symptoms of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

You can’t see it, taste it or smell it, but CO gas can kill quickly, and without warning. Always remember the 6 warning symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning:

Headache
Dizziness
Nausea
Breathlessness
Collapse
Loss of consciousness

If you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning.

Get fresh air immediately. Open the doors and windows, turn off gas appliances and leave the house.
Seek immediate medical attention. CO poisoning can usually be detected by a blood or breath test.
Have your home checked thoroughly before you return and if you think there is a major problem or gas leak, call the Gas Emergency Helpline on 0800 111 999.

Protect against Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

We recommend that you take the following steps to remove the risk to yourself and your family:

Ensure that your chimney is swept regularly.
Ensure that the fire has adequate ventilation at all times.
Use only HETAS registered installers for fitting solid fuel appliances.
Fit an audible Carbon Monoxide alarm in your property.
Don't cover or block outside vents, and check that overgrown plants aren't covering them either.
Have central heating systems and gas appliances inspected yearly for leakages or damage.
Never leave a fuel burning appliance running in a garage, especially in a garage which is attached to a house.

Barbecue Carbon Monoxide

It's also wise to take precautions to protect against carbon monoxide poisoning when using a barbecue. Although the risk is not as high as with a fireplace, it is still a risk not worth taking.

Be aware of wind direction when positioning the barbecue. The smoke should not be able to blow directly in to peoples faces, or through doors or windows.
Close doors or windows nearby to the barbecue to avoid smoke filling your house.
Avoid sitting or standing directly in the path of smoke.

For further information on Carbon Monoxide, visit www.gassaferegister.co.uk or speak to your chimney sweep.